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Chapter 57 - Terroir

57.1. Definition
The French word terroir is used throughout the wine world to describe the relationship between a wine and its place of origin. This relationship is essential to the French conception of wine quality. However, owing to its French origin, this term is often misunderstood by non-French-speaking wine lovers, who take it to mean many different things.
Professor A. Carbonneau from ENSA in Montpellier has recently published a clarification of this much-used term:
"The word terroir has a special power over both wine professionals and the general wine-drinking public. As such, it requires a precise definition. Examination of a French dictionary will yield the following:
Terroir (from terre or land) - Land as considered from an agricultural standpoint. [...] Territory used by a village or rural community for growing crops. [...] Goût de terroir: the aromas and tastes specific to wines of a given area.
The etymology of the word terroir is not all that clear, since its origins in popular language are complex and in all likelihood rather recent.
In contrast, it is well-known that the French word territoire, like the English territory, has its roots in the Latin word territorium: any stretch of land belonging to a State, city, jurisdiction or any other social or political structure.
This Latin concept is itself at the root of the AOC system. It reflects a socio-economic desire to produce and market wines that are strongly identified with a given region or area. In the AOC system, terroir thus takes on a technical meaning, i.e. that of a vineyard area with well-defined borders.
This distinction is important, since most AOC appellations are not based on a single, geologically homogeneous vineyard area nor on a single vineyard area that will produce wines with uniform sensory characteristics.
[…] For example, when we talk about wines from Saint Chinian (Languedoc region), it would be much more precise to say 'AOC- St. Chinian - Terroirs des Schistes de Berloup', or more simply 'AOC St Chinian- Terroir de Berloup'. […] Terroir depends on the ecological, geological and pedological characteristics of the site. We can thus define terroir as the interaction of climate, grape variety and the soil."

57.2. The Grapevine and the Soil
The grapevine interacts with the vineyard soil by means of its root system.
These roots act both as a "pump" and as the "underground lungs" of the vine:

• They "pump" minerals and organic compounds from the soil in a water solution.
• As the "underground lungs", they ensure gaseous exchange between the root tissues and the air found in the small cracks of the soil.

57.3. Soil Composition
The soil solution (minerals and organic compounds in water) that is available to the roots depends on soil composition.
When a high-quality vineyard (e.g. premier cru or grand cru) stands alongside a more mediocre vineyard, soil differences are often responsible for this quality distinction. The closeness of the soil/vine relationship is shown by the different aptitudes of different soils- whether they are composed of clay, sand, limestone or other materials. Some varieties do best on certain types of soils:

• Gamay: Granite and schistose formations
• Chardonnay: Marl soils with rather high clay content
• Pinot Noir: Limestone soils
• Cabernet Sauvignon: Gravel soils
• Merlot: Wind-blown sands
• Syrah: Quartzite soils

Each of these varieties can be grown on other soils, but wine quality will be negatively affected.
White varieties are more malleable. The effect of soil type on Riesling wines is well-illustrated in Alsace:
• Granite soils: Very fruity, fine, subtle wines for quick drinking.
• Limestone soils: Wines are less fruity early on and require several years of ageing to reach full maturity.